Change Photo Date Online
Fix the capture date stored in your photos’ EXIF, either by shifting every file by the same offset or by setting one exact date. Batch edit and download a ZIP.
How to Change a Photo's Date
Add your photos, choose shift or set mode, enter the offset or the exact date, then apply. Download the edited files individually or as one ZIP.
Step 1
Add Your Photos
Drop in one JPEG or a whole folder; each file’s current date is read immediately.
Step 2
Choose Shift or Set
Shift moves every date by the same amount, while set assigns one exact date to all.
Step 3
Download the Files
Save the edited photos individually, or grab the whole batch as a single ZIP archive.
Fix Capture Dates Across a Whole Shoot Without Re-Encoding
Every photo carries a small block of metadata recording when it was taken, and photo libraries sort everything by it. That is fine until the camera clock was wrong, at which point an entire trip is misfiled and no amount of dragging things around inside an app will properly fix it. The usual causes are a clock reset after a flat battery, a timezone that was never changed, and scanned prints that arrive stamped with the day of the scan rather than the day of the photograph.
There are two ways to correct it and they suit different situations. Shift mode moves every photo’s existing date by the same amount, in days, hours and minutes, which is exactly right when the camera clock was consistently off by a fixed interval. Because it is a relative change, the spacing between shots is preserved, so a burst taken seconds apart stays seconds apart. Set mode assigns one specific date and time to everything, which is what you want for a batch of scanned photos where only you know when they were actually taken.
Four date fields are rewritten where they already exist: the capture time, the digitised time, the file modification time and the GPS date stamp. Keeping them in step matters, because different software reads different ones. Google Photos and Apple Photos rely on the capture time, file managers show the modification time, and mapping tools use the GPS date. Updating all four means the corrected date shows up consistently wherever the photo is opened.
The editing is done on the file’s bytes rather than by re-encoding the image. The date fields are overwritten in place at a fixed length, so the actual picture data is never touched or recompressed. That means no generation loss, no change in file size beyond the metadata, and output that is pixel-identical to what you loaded. JPEG and TIFF files are handled directly, and PNG files through their EXIF block, with the checksum recalculated so the file stays valid.
Because photos are personal, the whole process runs in your browser with no upload and no external library. Nothing is sent anywhere and nothing is retained. There is one honest limitation: formats that do not carry a standard EXIF date, such as HEIC, are reported rather than converted, because rewriting them would risk corrupting metadata the tool cannot reliably parse. Convert those to JPEG first. And a note on use: this is for correcting genuine clock errors, not for misrepresenting when a photograph was taken.
Shift or Set
Move every date by a fixed offset, or assign one exact date to a whole batch.
Batch Editing
Process an entire folder in one pass and download everything as a single ZIP.
Four Date Fields
Capture, digitised, modified and GPS dates are updated together for consistency.
No Re-Encoding
Date fields are overwritten in place, so image data is never recompressed or degraded.
Before and After
See the new date next to the original for every file before you apply the change.
Nothing Uploaded
All editing happens in your browser, so personal photos never leave your device.
FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Use shift when the camera clock was consistently off by a fixed amount, such as a wrong timezone, because it preserves the interval between shots. Use set when you know the exact date, such as for a batch of scanned prints.
The capture time, the digitised time, the file modification time and the GPS date stamp, where they already exist in the file. Updating all four keeps the corrected date consistent across photo apps, file managers and mapping tools.
No. The date fields are overwritten in place at a fixed length and the image data is never re-encoded, so the pixels are identical to what you loaded and the file size barely changes.
Yes. Add a whole folder, choose your mode, and every file is processed in one pass. Download them individually or as a single ZIP archive containing the edited copies. The offset you enter is applied identically to every photo in the batch.
JPEG and TIFF files are edited directly, and PNG files through their EXIF block with the checksum recalculated. HEIC and similar formats are reported rather than converted, so convert them to JPEG first.
Formats without a standard EXIF date structure are skipped rather than rewritten, because changing them risks corrupting metadata the tool cannot reliably parse. Converting the image to JPEG first resolves it.
No. The edited photos are downloaded as copies, and your originals stay exactly where they are. That also means you can try a different offset without having already overwritten anything.
No. All reading and writing happens in your browser with no external library, so nothing is sent to a server and nothing is retained after you close the page. Family archives and client shoots stay entirely on your machine.
Use it to correct genuine clock errors, such as a wrong timezone or a reset camera. Deliberately misrepresenting when a photograph was taken, for a visa or any other official purpose, is not what this tool is for.